Rudi's RV10 Build: RV ZULU-X

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Rudi's RV10 Build: RV ZULU-X

Unread postby RudiGreyling » Thu Jun 18, 2009 5:04 pm

To my fellow RVators and interested Parties,

Well last night I broke open the tail kit crate, becoming an official Vans Aircraft RV10 builder.

Here I will detail my kit build trail and tribulations, hoping to inspire fellow aviators to build as well.
If you need more info about kit building feel free to phone me 0EIGHT3 – 2FOUR5 – Double9 Double5

By introduction if you don’t know what a Vans Aircraft RV10 is http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/rv-10int.htm
RV-10: The performance, handling and cost of the RV-10 make it the obvious choice in the limited field of four-seat kit airplanes, and make it a viable alternative to four-seat production airplanes – singles or twins -- as well.

The RV-10 is a four-person airplane, not just an airplane with four seats. It will carry four FAA standard people, full fuel and sixty pounds of baggage. The cabin accommodates four full-sized adults. Both front and back seats will hold people 6’4" tall and provide them with truly comfortable leg and headroom. Composite gull-wing doors let occupants board from both sides.

The RV-10 is designed to fly well on various versions of the bulletproof six-cylinder Lycoming O-540 engine, developing between 235 and 260 hp. In our prototype, power is provided by a fuel injected 260 hp Lycoming IO-540.

When many pilots say "performance", they really mean "speed." The RV-10 is quite a fast airplane – it will cruise just under 200 mph -- but speed is only part of the story.

The RV-10 derives its high cruise speed from a clean, light airframe, instead of from a big, consumptive engine. This means that cruise at lower speeds can be very economical. Company pilots often choose to cruise at 50-55% power and take advantage of the economy available there. At 175 mph, the RV-10 is getting more miles per gallon than most of the luxury cars, pickup trucks and SUVs it is flying over.

RVs are known for short-field capability and the RV-10 is no exception. Even at gross weight, the RV-10 can operate out of very short runways and climb well at high density altitudes. At the end of a flight, the generous wing area, big slotted flaps and robust steel rod landing gear allow the RV-10 to land at virtually any small airport -- grass, gravel or pavement. If you can land closer to your destination, you can gain a lot of time over "faster" airplanes that must use big paved airports a long way from town.

Occupant protection is an important design criteria. The composite cabin top provides roll-over protection. The cabin interior is designed around Oregon Aero seats and seat cushions, (provided in the kit) which provide the best available impact mitigation — and comfort. Like all other RVs, the RV-10 has impressively low stall and landing speeds. If necessary, it can be safely landed in very small spaces at speeds that give the occupants the best possible chance of escaping injury.

The baggage compartment will accept 100 lbs of "stuff" loaded through the baggage door on the left side. If fewer than four people are traveling, the rear seat backs may be removed in a couple of minutes for extra baggage space.

RVs have always enjoyed a reputation for excellent handling qualities. The RV-10 continues this tradition, in a manner appropriate to a four-place airplane. It is a very responsive airplane, but at the same time stable and easy to fly. It is not an aerobatic airplane, so flick-of-the-wrist sensitivity is not the point. Pilot workload is very low, because the airplane responds quickly and positively to small control inputs from the between-the-knees sticks and rigid pushrods running on ball bearings. It is not the least bit "twitchy" and does not require constant attention to maintain heading or altitude. A long trip in the RV-10 can be positively relaxing.

If your mission includes more than two people, and you like airplanes that perform and handle well, you really owe yourself a ride in an RV-10.

PERFORMANCE:
Performance at Gross Weight 2700 with 260 hp Engine
Top Speed 208 mph
Cruise [75% @ 8000 ft] 197 mph
Cruise [55% @ 8000 ft] 176 mph
Stall Speed 63 mph
Takeoff Distance 500 ft
Landing Distance 650 ft
Climb/Ceiling
Rate of Climb 1,450 fpm
Ceiling (est) 20,000 ft
Range [75% @ 8000 ft] 825 sm
Range [55% @ 8000 ft] 1000 sm
Image
Image


A Nice Cutaway Drawing of the RV10:
Image

My Mission for my RV10:
A comfortable 4 seater X-country IFR cruiser. A plane to be used and not to be pampared, hence not a showpiece, but a work horse. A plane one would take into dirt strips and not worry to much about the odd chip on the paint here and there.

Let the build begin:
The RV10 tail kit crate
Image
Open and packed very good. All the parts wrapped up in paper and the skins layered between cardboard.
Image

Hopefully I'll update these pages once a week on a Monday for you to follow and I anticipate it will take me 3 years to build, so that means +/- 150 Episodes :mrgreen:

Groete
Rudi

UPDATE 17 Jan 2011: ZU-LUX reserved!
Last edited by RudiGreyling on Mon Jan 17, 2011 11:16 am, edited 4 times in total.
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Re: Rudi's RV10 Build

Unread postby Ugly Duckling » Thu Jun 18, 2009 5:19 pm

This is a "must watch" topic :D 3 years :?:
Kit Builder: RV7 completed, Busy Building RV10 =D>
Paul Sabatier EAA Ch 575, SSSA, ERGC, ERFC, AeroClub
Long time Cygnet builder
The object is to fly, it does not matter what the object is!
grostek

Re: Rudi's RV10 Build

Unread postby grostek » Thu Jun 18, 2009 8:34 pm

Hi Rudi,

Your journey has started again, but this time you will have plenty of experience from the RV 7 build to draw on and I will not be surprised if those estimated 3 years turn into 2.5 years.

Thank you for detailing the build here I am sure it will be an inspiration to many of us.

Have fun building her.

Kind regards,

Gunter Rostek.
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Re: Rudi's RV10 Build

Unread postby minivan » Sat Jun 20, 2009 1:31 pm

Well as they say - little inspiration and a lot of perspiration - go Rudi - a dream come true ... and at the end more than a dream - reality!!!!

Enjoy the experience, and thanks once again for sharing and allowing us to join in the experience as well - who knows who will tell their kids one day, "You know boys, when I was younger there was this guy Rudi ... and because of him .... lets go fly that RV7, 12 10 or whatever may follow"..

I will surely be looking at this thread weekly, knowing that I woun't be dissapointed.

Happy Building - =D> =D>
Like all great things achieved in life .... Little inspiration and a lot of perspiration... therefore "Carpe Diem"!!!
RV-10 #41049 - Building Emp Kit
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/index.php ... roject=856
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Re: Rudi's RV10 Build

Unread postby minivan » Sat Jun 20, 2009 1:40 pm

Rudi

Will we be able to track the process on your "KitLog Pro" websit? If so, please post the link - Thanks.

Pierre
Like all great things achieved in life .... Little inspiration and a lot of perspiration... therefore "Carpe Diem"!!!
RV-10 #41049 - Building Emp Kit
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/index.php ... roject=856
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Started Vertical Stab

Unread postby RudiGreyling » Mon Jun 22, 2009 9:44 am

Hi Guys,

It is Monday, so time for Episode 1:

Thank you for all your kind comments, yes I will keep a kit log pro log, that is the best way to detail a build for CAA. I will post the link later during the build.

So this past week, little on the build side lots of admin. With the crate open the first task is admin i.e. inventory. All the parts are here. Then you store everything away.

With the admin and storing out of the way the build can start. The first thing to build is the Vertical Stabiliser, a simple and easy structure.
Image

Image

Here are the parts that make up the vertical stab spar:
Image

I got spoiled with the RV12, now again with the RV10, you got to match drill everthing (enlarging the holes to correct size and to take out 'weak' hole edge spots that might occur during the hole punching process. So you clecko and clamp everthing together and drill every hole to final size take it appart and debur the holes. The RV12 with pop rivets (A slower lighter plane) did not need this time consuming step, the RV10 uses solid rivets again (faster heavier machine), so it is back to old traditional manufacturing basics.
Image

Next week I am on flying jolly, so I might just drop in on Friday to give you something to carry you over until Monday 6 July.

Regards
Rudi
MikeinPE

Re: Rudi's RV10 Build

Unread postby MikeinPE » Tue Jun 23, 2009 6:59 pm

Just picked up the following on the Matronics website for anyone contemplating what Rudi is doing. For a price of $27,500 you get the following: The kit is tail + QB Wings + QB Fuse. All kit parts included but no additional systems. That’s less than $1000 above a new slow build price but puts you quite a bit further ahead than even a new QB kit.
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Re: Rudi's RV10 Build

Unread postby RudiGreyling » Wed Jun 24, 2009 7:37 am

MikeinPE wrote:Just picked up the following on the Matronics website for anyone contemplating what Rudi is doing. For a price of $27,500 you get the following: The kit is tail + QB Wings + QB Fuse. All kit parts included but no additional systems. That’s less than $1000 above a new slow build price but puts you quite a bit further ahead than even a new QB kit.


Hi MikeinPE,

Yes there are a couple of bargains in the USA, but buying a 1/2 build home airplane is like buying an old 2nd hand car BLINDLY. If you can't inspect it throuroughly i.e. every single rivet, then tread very lightly. I have heard nurmerous horror stories of guys not match drilling the hole to the right size but instead dimpling it straight out the box, shearing every single hole bigger, realising their mistake then flogging the airplane kit. OR worse builder taking this shortcut to get the airplane out the door to an unsuspecting customer and once you start flying it the cracks start to show. Another horror story is where a guy cut his longerons and then just refited them like nothing happened, the longerons is critical in fuselage strength.

For me building is a BIG PART of the journey. Working with New Parts, Good Tools in a Clean Comfortable environment is a pleasure.

Bargains currenty behad, but be very carefull out there!

PS:If you want a bargain, go to Oshkosh THIS year, make sure you have the wallet to match and bargain on the spot, pay the same week, before you come back to SA. I know of 2 oukes going to Oshkosk to buy flying RV's this year. What better place and time to compare all options...

Groete
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Re: Rudi's RV10 Build

Unread postby RudiGreyling » Fri Jun 26, 2009 11:27 am

Hi RVators,

As promised a quick update to carry you over until I am back from leave.
I did not get to do as much as I wanted, cause the flight planning for our Kariba / Vic Falls Safari took up much of my time.

I am going to show any new prospective builders some pictures of the DIMPLING process you repeat many times, but just this once, in the beginning of the series, you are going to do it with ALL the exterior holes.

Here is the Vertical Under structure (Skeleton) you cleco it together and then match drill all the fastening holes. Note the skin in the background.
Image

Then you fit the skin over the skeleton, put a clecko in every other hole, then match dril every open hole, swap cleckos into holes just drilled, and then match drill all the remaining holes. At this stage you are 25% done with the piece, with the RV12 pop rivet in comparison you would have riveted it together by now, hence the RV12 builds 4 times faster. I leave the plastic on during this stage to protect the alcad coating against unnecessary scratches during trail fitting.
Image

You peal off the plastic and check and debur holes that has a bur on them. Then you need to countersunk or dimple the exterior surfaces for flush rivets. Material 0.040" and thicker you can countersink i.e. you are drilling material away to form the countersunk. BUT on thin skins 0.040" and thinner you DIMPLE there is not enough material to countersink into. Dimpling involves a C frame with a male and femal DIE that uniformly bends a perfect countersunk shape to the hole so your rivet can fit flush, without removing any material. Below is my C Frame and the head, you pull the lever down on every hole to Dimple it.
Image

A close up shot of the head showing holes that are dimpled and some that is not. LEFT side holes of the cross are Dimpled, the Right side is still undimpled.
Image

Any case, that is all I did this week, I am off for a week with a Flying Safari Jolly in my RV7.
More when I am back...Groete
Rudi
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Re: Rudi's RV10 Build

Unread postby Jayson v Schalkwyk » Tue Jun 30, 2009 3:52 am

Hi Rudi,

Geez like man - you can get more done than most in the short space of a weekend. Its great to see an update on a monday morning.

Whats the throat depth on the dimpler? I have not seen such a nice one before. Most you have to smack with a hammer to create the dimple. This one seems it would make more precise and importantly consistant dimples.

Keep us posted.
Jayson
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Re: Rudi's RV10 Build

Unread postby RudiGreyling » Mon Jul 06, 2009 11:20 am

Hawkerdriver wrote:Hi Rudi,

Geez like man - you can get more done than most in the short space of a weekend. Its great to see an update on a monday morning.

Whats the throat depth on the dimpler? I have not seen such a nice one before. Most you have to smack with a hammer to create the dimple. This one seems it would make more precise and importantly consistant dimples.

Keep us posted.
Jayson


Hi Jayson, thanx for your kind words.

Yes this dimpler gives you 1" x 22". It produces perfect consistant dimples. More importantly the chances of ruining a skin by smacking a new hole with your hammer with the old type is elimated, so it pays for itself quickly because you don't mess up skins.

PS: Monday update will be up shortly.

Regards
Rudi
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Re: Rudi's RV10 Build

Unread postby RudiGreyling » Mon Jul 06, 2009 11:24 am

Hi RVators,

Well I am back from my Flying Safari, and managed to put in a few hours yesterday.

During the episodes I’ll introduce you to the tools I am using, for the newbies.

I had to do some countersinking for flush rivets into material thicker than 0.040” of inch (Remember last week’s episode about countersinking vs dimpling…) How do you countersink each hole exactly the same? You use a micro stop countersinking tool, with which can set the depth perfectly and then repeat many times, see the zig zag teeth for adjustment. Also notice the counter sink cutter has a pilot pig tail on the front to fit exactly in the hole diameter you countersink. You get a cutter for each hole size. Luckily on the RV models there are only 4 or 5 hole sizes, so that means 4 or 5 cutters, that will fit into the micro stop countersink tool. This one also has a protective plastic rim on the front face to ensure you don't mar the metal face you are countersinking.
Image

Then I prepped and primed all the internal structures.
Image

Then I started to rivet the vertical stab rear spar. You can see the white hinge brackets where the rudder will attach.
Image

This week I will need to rivet the internal structure together and then rivet the skin to it. Hopefully next week I’ll be able to show you a completed Vertical Stab, and start with the rudder.

Groete
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Re: Rudi's RV10 Build

Unread postby RudiGreyling » Mon Jul 13, 2009 8:26 am

Hi Rvators, It is Monday so time for this week's episode:

OK I spend some time finishing the Vertical Stab.

First up you need to rivet the skeleton together:
Image

Then you rivet the skin on. It felt good to use my solid rivet tools again
Image

I said I would introduce the tools as I go, so here are some of the tools I used for riveting. The squeezer you use for rivets along the edges. The rivet gun and bucking bars are for rivets deeper away from the edges.
Image

Then I started with the Rudder. GREEN = DONE ; BLUE = Busy With
Image

With the first milestone in a long journey completed meant it felt good to put the first section behind me, and to open the next section.
Image

First task is to cut 14 Stiffeners. Some more tools here: Aviation tin snips. You get Right Hand, Left Hand and straight snips. Depending on your cut and which side the scrap is going will dictate which snips is best suited for the job.
Image

Then I started the assembly of the bottom of the rudder, here you can see the rudder bottom and rudder actuating and stop bracket.
Image

This week I hope to at least clecko and match drill the whole rudder structure together.

I hope you guys still find it interesting; (If I don't see any replies in a week I wonder sometimes) :?
Otherwise I could just do it in privately in my garage and not take the time to make these detailed posts and try and educate the already educated :mrgreen: …let me know please...Is it good enough, less, more, just highligts every months or so, or nothing at all I bore you ... :twisted:

Groete
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Re: Rudi's RV10 Build

Unread postby Sox » Mon Jul 13, 2009 8:40 am

RudiGreyling wrote:I hope you guys still find it interesting; (If I don't see any replies in a week I wonder sometimes) :?
Otherwise I could just do it in privately in my garage and not take the time to make these detailed posts and try and educate the already educated :mrgreen: …let me know please...Is it good enough, less, more, just highligts every months or so, or nothing at all I bore you ... :twisted:


Rudi, keep doing what you are doing - it makes some of our Monday mornings ... Thanks
When is your Kitlog site going to be up and running?
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Re: Rudi's RV10 Build

Unread postby Rave » Mon Jul 13, 2009 10:44 am

Hi Rudi,

OK, so I am one of the many lurkers always reading and never voicing an opinion, but feel that it is about time that I thank you here for giving us such an opportunity to live your build with you. All this extra effort you put in does not go by unnoticed, that I can promise you. I have followed your RV7 build and also love reading about all the fun you are having since. What you are doing here is THE inspiration for my future RaVe builds..... soon! Please keep this thread going, and be assured of my visit at your first RV10 open house invatition.

Many thanks Rudi!

Regards,

Deon.



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