Rudi's RV10 Build: RV ZULU-X

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RudiGreyling
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Re: Rudi's RV10 Build

Unread post by RudiGreyling » Thu Jul 23, 2009 8:19 am

DDO wrote:Hi Rudi,

Thank you so much for sacrificing 2 hours of your precious building time to show me around your workshop and answer my questions.
I will be following the tool descriptions and uses with new enthusiasm.

I think you convinced me that I am capable of building a project from Vans, if all work out well I will be ordering the RV9 empennage kit next week.

Regards

Johan
My Pleasure Johan! Groete Rudi
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Re: Rudi's RV10 Build

Unread post by RudiGreyling » Mon Jul 27, 2009 9:38 am

Hi RVators,

It is Monday and I made some progress this week. I will incorporate tooltime inside the progress report instead of separate, since I used the tool/method during this weeks construction...

First up you flip the rudder skins over and put rivets in all the stiffener holes and then tape the rivets so they don’t fall out. (I found 3M Magic Tape, works best. It is like Sello tape but does not leave a glue residue when you remove it)
Image

Then you flip the rudder skin over and position the stiffeners over the protruding rivets. Then you BACK rivet the stiffeners to the skin. How do you do that and what is back riveting? Time for Tooltime...

TOOL TIME:
First you take a flat piece of metal, you can see I routed it to fit flush in my back rivet board.
Image

Then you masking tape all the edges so that it doesn’t scratch the skins, as shown in the photo. You position your stiffener over the protruding rivets and use the rivet gun with a back rivet set. You position the rivet over the plate, and then shoot with the rivet gun from the top straight down on the rivet.
Image

A Close-up of the back riveting set in the rivet gun and rivets that has been set.
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How much do you need to set a rivet by? Well you use your Rivet Gauge of course. One use the rivet guage both to ensure you start of with the correct length rivet and also to ensure you set it just right. (A too long rivet will bend skew when setting, a too short rivet you compromise strength. When setting a rivet you want to set it correctly, cause too little or too much and strength is compromised. Luckily Vans specifies each rivet for each location) OK looking at this photo you can see this D3 rivet is just the right length. (The other length positions are for thicker rivets D4,D5,D6 rivets). You can also see a rivet that has been set already for comparison to the left. You start out with a rivet protruding 1.5 x the Diameter of the rivet.
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After setting the rivet you want the rivet head to protrude only 0.5 x diameter, but the head gets bigger as you set it, hence you use to round hole indicator in the rivet gauge to ensure it just just doesn’t fit. If the hole is loose over the rivet, then you need to set it a bit more…See picture below. The right hand rivet is set to perfection the left hand one is not set at all.
Image

OK back to the progress report.
You set all the stiffeners.
Image

Do both sides of the rudder and fit the shear clip.
Image

Then you fit the 2 halves together, but you GLUE a triangular piece of aluminum in the trailing edge, where the back haves meet. You clecko it together and weigh it down on a flat work surface, and leave it for a couple of days to dry. You glue it because you can’t back rivet the trailing edge with the cleckos in place, you need a flat area and the clecko’s protrude to the bottom. If you try and rivet it without the cleckos and without glue you get relative movement that results in a wavy rudder trailing edge. So you glue, wait for the glue to settle, remove the cleckos then you can back rivet it without cleckos in the way and no relative movement to the parts, hopefully ending up with a straight rudder trailing edge.
Image

You weigh it down and leave it this week for the glue to cure, this cold weather means things take longer.
We will see what I get up to this week while the glue cures. I might start on the Horisontal Stabiliser in the mean time.

Till Next Week,
Groete
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Re: Rudi's RV10 Build

Unread post by dbg » Mon Jul 27, 2009 9:48 am

Hi.

This weekend I stopped off at FAWC for a quickly splash and dash and a brand new RV10 was standing there in all her glory. I must say, I was impressed, it is a beautiful aircraft.

Rudi, I hope you have hours of fun in yours.

Regards.


Erick
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The Rudder is Done

Unread post by RudiGreyling » Mon Aug 03, 2009 8:57 am

Good Monday Morning Rvators,

Thanx Erick I intend to!

Well the uncanny cold wet weather here in Gauteng meant I spend a lot of time in my comfy garage building, instead of going to the airport with my mates and standing around talking nonsense cause no-one could or wanted to fly VFR....

First Up, Urgh Urh Tool Time:(As "Tim The Tool Man" Taylor would say! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tim_Taylor_(character) )

See the picture below, notice the Pink Pressure Regulator at the rivet gun inlet. Well it serves 2 purposes.
#1) the obvious is to control the inlet pressure to the gun. Depending on the diameter and size of the rivet I change my pressure setting. Now instead of doing it at the compressor, you can easily change the pressure (and hence speed) of the rivet gun at the rivet gun.
#2) this is a swiveling free moving regulator, which means air hose pipe can swivel at the connection so you can always get the perfect positioning and swivel the air hose pipe out of your way.
Image

Also below in today’s progress report I’ll show you the utilization of a broomstick and some vice-grips.

On to the Progress Report:
The Rudder trailing edge sat weighed down on a flat surface for most of the week with the proseal glue curing it. The I cleaned it all out and back riveting the trailing edge, in the same fashion one would torque an engine head. Slowly setting the rivets in a spread out sequence over the entire length, to ensure it does not go skew. “Patience my little one, goes a long way!”
Image

A closer look reveals a perfectly straight rudder trailing edge:
Image

Next up you need to roll the Rudder Leading Edge and close it up. Time for some more tools, your broomstick and vice-grips. You tape the broomstick to the inside of the leading edge skin. I prefer using strapping or filament tape so the tape don’t stretch. Then using 2 vice grips on both sides you ‘roll’ the leading edge and bend it inwards.
Image

To bottom leading edge has a bigger curve so you use a thicker “broom stick”. You will also notice to top LE (leading Edge) sections already rolled and clecko’ed in place.
Image

You Set the Leading Edge Roll with pop rivets, because there is now way to gain access to the 'back side' of the rivets inside that LE roll. Remember to set solid rivets need you to have access to both sides of the rivet. The same is true for the rudder top and bottom fiberglass fairings. So I pulled a couple of pop rivets, reminiscent of my RV12 days, then finished the rudder completely.
Image

The rudder is huge, standing almost 1.8 meters tall. Guess I am building a BIG plane now ;-) Any case I bubble wrapped the rudder and hung it from the garage roof out of the way, till required again later for trail fitting to the fuselage.

Till Next Week, when we meet up to start the next section: The Horisontal Stabiliser…

Groete
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Re: Rudi's RV10 Build

Unread post by minivan » Mon Aug 03, 2009 9:39 am

Hi Rudi

Is amazing what you have done in a mere 6 weeks - the workmanship looks great as always - =D> .

Have you started your Kitlog updates for this project yet?

Pierre
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Re: Rudi's RV10 Build

Unread post by grostek » Mon Aug 03, 2009 1:12 pm

Hi Rudi,

That Rudder looks great.
As always your workmanship is up to show standard.
Having said that, this is how every solid riveted aircraft should be assembled.
Something for me to aim at when I am so far.

Do you feel that you are making faster progress because you had the experience with the RV7?

Happy building.

Kind regards,

Gunter Rostek
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Re: Rudi's RV10 Build

Unread post by RudiGreyling » Tue Aug 04, 2009 8:25 am

minivan wrote:<SNIP> Have you started your Kitlog updates for this project yet?
Pierre
grostek wrote:<SNIP>Do you feel that you are making faster progress because you had the experience with the RV7?
Gunter Rostek
Thanks guys,
Yes I build quicker due to the RV7 experience, that said the RV10 plans are much easier to read and understand. It is like the RV12 plans. A3 format in a book, with Step by Step instructions and drawings to match the steps. None of this A0 Isometric PLAN pages and text instructions then trying to match the 2 up. Vans has made significant improvements in the way they represent the plans. That said I am in no rush with the RV10, with my RV7 I averaged +/- 16hours a week. With the RV10 I am aiming 50% of that i.e. 8 hours a week.

See below a snippet for next monday showing the plans in the background...

Pierre the detailed step by step RV10 booklet plans is also the reasons I decided NOT to do a KITLOG any more. Let me explain. The RV10 Plans are already in a step by step booklet form. I made a working copy of the plans and mark each completed step as I go with highlighters etc. There are lots of 'EMPTY' space on each page so I comment directly on the plans, and note the dates when I completed each page. When the AP comes along to inspect I hand him the plans to verify what I have done. He then put his STAMP of approval and sign then directly on my plans. If I completed a section/chapter, the AP then stamps the Beginning of the Section/Chapter and writes "Completed to Satisfaction" and signs. This then becomes my approved builder's log, and no need to duplicate effort on a kitlog. Everything is together. When it comes time to register I can take my plans/builders BOOK with AP inspection approvals to CAA and a couple of builder photos to prove I did it.

I still keep an informal count of the hours though. Just to know how long it takes.

Groete
Rudi

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Starting on the H-Stab

Unread post by RudiGreyling » Tue Aug 11, 2009 9:37 am

Good Tuesday Morning Rvators, (Monday was a public Holiday)

The public holiday was put to good use and good progress was made…

First up: Tool Time
I recently rediscovered the EAA’s videos for home builders. So I think to get a basic understanding of Metal building tools, go watch this video: Sheet Metal Building Tools 101.
http://link.brightcove.com/services/pla ... 4417516001
I agree with most he says, except a rivet Fan and multiple air drills are not really required when building a modern RV with match holes. I do agree with a nice to have tool came become an necessity in a instant!

Progress Report:
I started with the Horisontal stabilizer (Actually I started already when I was waiting for the rudder trailing edge pro-seal to cure, but I did not want to disorientate you wanna be builders ;-)

This Horizontal Stab is huge! It is almost 3.5m long, longer than my RV7 wing! And there are +/- 1,000 rivets holding it together. That means 1,000 x 10 hole visits = 10,000 times I am going to see those little holes, that means a lot of work before it is done.

Here is the cutaway drawing with what I am busy with and what is done.
Image

First you need to make the H-Stab attachment brackets out of raw Alu-Angle.
ImageImage
Image

Here are all the parts to the H-Stab spars, already prepared and cut to size.
Image

Here is the rear spar riveted together, and the steel powder coated elevator bracket (ready as supplied by vans) installed. Notice the little torque wrench you torque these nuts 20-25 inch pounds ~= 1-2 Nmeters, so you need a small torque wrench. Also if you finaly torque and installed a part, then mark it with torque seal on the portion that will be visible from the outside. It serves 2 purposes, 1 you know it has been finally installed and assembled and 2 during pre-flight you can see of visible movement occurred on those parts.
Image

Some more elevator hinge brackets installed on the rear H-Stab
Image

The front spar riveted up with the H-Stab Attachment Angle Brackets manufactured in step one above in place.
Image

This is what the 2 H-Stab spar assemblies look like all riveted up.
Image

Next you attach the Nose ribs and In-Spar ribs to the 2 spars, this is just temporary because you need to match drill-everything.
Image

You create 4 make-shift cradles, just to make working with this long H-Stab easy and clamp it to your bench.
Image

You fit the H-Stab skins in the cradles,
Image

Then you insert the H-Stab Spar skeleton assembly in the 2 skins, clecko every other hole, then match drill the whole assembly, move clecko’s and drill the remaining holes.
Image

There are +/- 1,000 exterior holes on this H-Stab assembly so drilling and deburing cleaning the 4 sides (remember a rivet hole attaches at least 2 parts, so that means at least 4 hole sides per exterior hole) took a significant amount of time. I finished all the prep work and primered all the parts. So this week it is all about riveting those 1,000 holes, it will take some time…

Till next week,
Groete
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Re: Rudi's RV10 Build

Unread post by grostek » Tue Aug 11, 2009 11:28 pm

Hi Rudi,

Very good progress.

The ribs look good from a distance, did you have to adjust them at all, or are they good to fit as they come from Vans?

Then your Holding Jig, how did you get all the cut outs to be equal, did you route them from a master template?

It is always a pleasure to see such good craftmanship, every rivet perfect, the rivet head clean and unmarked.

Have fun building this coming week.

Kind regards,

Gunter Rostek.
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Re: Rudi's RV10 Build

Unread post by RudiGreyling » Wed Aug 12, 2009 7:56 am

grostek wrote:<SNIP>
The ribs look good from a distance, did you have to adjust them at all, or are they good to fit as they come from Vans?

Then your Holding Jig, how did you get all the cut outs to be equal, did you route them from a master template?

It is always a pleasure to see such good craftmanship, every rivet perfect, the rivet head clean and unmarked.
<SNIP>
Hi Gunter, you have a good eye and notice the fine details...

1) I had to do NO rib adjustments, Other than deburing the edges. I am amazed that on my RV10 H-Stab the Nose ribs and inspar ribs came Pre-fluted out the box. Yep ussually one as to flute the flanges to straighten the ribs after the press forming process at Vans. Not this time the H-Stab ribs were straight as an arrow and pre-fluted. This was not the case on any of my RV12 or RV7 parts. Maybe Vans is improving their manufacturing process over time or maybe I got an 'advanced' RV10 Tail kit sample.

2) It is not really a jig, just a holding craddle to assist assembly. Vans tell you, you DO NOT have to be overly careful when making them since matched hole technology almost ensures a straight H-Stab. So you simply clecko a nose rib and inspar rib together and trace it on some wood with an extra 4mm clearance and cut it out with your jigsaw. Line it with some duct tape to protect the skins and you have your assembly craddle. It helps when dealing with the assembly of the 3.5m long H-Stab, otherwise you will be all over the table battling to gain sturdy access to the insides to rivet.

Groete
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Re: Rudi's RV10 Build

Unread post by grostek » Wed Aug 12, 2009 1:16 pm

Hi Rudi,

Reason I asked is if you have to make accurate jigs and holding fixures then the build time soon mounts up and progress seems slow.

Glad to hear the matched hole technology they are using is making the building of an aircraft faster and above all more accurate.

Thanks for the reply.

Happy buildig and I am looking forward to the next installment. :D :D

Kind regards,

Gunter Rostek.
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Re: Rudi's RV10 Build

Unread post by RudiGreyling » Thu Aug 13, 2009 1:40 pm

Bumpy wrote:Hi Rudi

Once again thanks for sharing your progress…

As a matter of interest how many clecko’s do you have?

Cheers

Phil
Hi Phil,

+/-500 silver #40 ones, about 300 bronze #30, then very little of the other sizes. The H-stab completed my silver clecko's hence +/- 1000 holes.

When I clecko I'd like to put a clecko in every other hole to ensure everything lines up perfectly.
I match drill every open hole (50% of the holes), then move all the cleckos just one space, the match drill the remaining 50%

As a matter of intererst. I use a samiliar technique when riveting, but remembering to complete main sections like spars first 100% before doing ribs etc later. And as a rule middle of the skin out towards the edges, closed areas (like leading edges) towards open areas (trailing edges). It ensures you don't get 'bubble skin areas' or oil canning as the guys in the know will say.

Some would say I am "OVER cleckoing" but better alignment never hurt anyone. Tell that to the blisters on my hand! :P

Regards
Rudi

PS: You can do with less, i.e. if you only had +/- 200 silver cleckos you could do one H-Stab skin at a time, and on the straight non curvy parts you could put a clecko only every 2nd or 3rd or even 4th hole.
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H-Stab 50% riveted

Unread post by RudiGreyling » Mon Aug 17, 2009 10:02 am

Good Morning RVators,

Tool Time:
This guy has a good strategy for finishing a project, listen to him!
http://link.brightcove.com/services/pla ... 1858922481

Here is the rivet Squeezer I use and some dimple dies. I like this squeezer because it has a cam with a profiled mechanical lever advantage making squeezing rivets easier. It is available from Cleaveland tools. The dimples are sized for the different sized holes typically used on a RV.
Image

Progress Report:
Not a lot to report this week. I got a bit side tracked by a car that needed some emergency repairs, because the dealer screwed up and then I ended up fixing it myself :x :(

We managed to rivet about ½ of the H-Stab rivets. There are a lot of rivets and it takes a long time. Below you can see the skeleton structure riveted together and just before it is inserted into the skin envelopes.
Image

I hope to finish the H-Stab this week.

Till Next Time,
Regards
Rudi
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Re: Rudi's RV10 Build

Unread post by minivan » Mon Aug 17, 2009 1:21 pm

Hi Rudi

Just a quick Q - this part of the kit in everything behind the bagage compartment - part of tail cone, Horizontal and vertical stab with moving part etc? So to speak - the back third of the RV10?

Enjoy your building - looks great - and the read stays facinating!! - =D>

Pierre
Like all great things achieved in life .... Little inspiration and a lot of perspiration... therefore "Carpe Diem"!!!
RV-10 #41049 - Building Emp Kit
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Re: Rudi's RV10 Build

Unread post by RudiGreyling » Mon Aug 17, 2009 3:26 pm

minivan wrote:Hi Rudi

Just a quick Q - this part of the kit in everything behind the bagage compartment - part of tail cone, Horizontal and vertical stab with moving part etc? So to speak - the back third of the RV10?

Enjoy your building - looks great - and the read stays facinating!! - =D>

Pierre
Hi Thanks Pierre, Yes the RV10 and RV12 tailkit includes the tailcone sections, bagage compartment bulkhead back to tail (The other RV models tailkits don't have the tailcone, it is included in their fuselage kits). Regards, Rudi

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